How to Remove Green Tint from Video (Fluorescent & LED Casts)

That sickly green wash over your footage almost always comes from the lighting, not your camera: fluorescent tubes, cheap LED panels, gym and office lighting, and some street lamps all emit a green spike that auto white balance doesn't fully correct. Skin goes seasick, whites go mint, and everything reads slightly wrong even when viewers can't say why.

The fix is a two-slider job in most cases. Here's the full process, worst case included.

Step 1 — Find a reference neutral

Open your footage in Luttie (drop in the video and pull a frame, or upload a still). Find something in the frame that should be neutral: a white shirt, grey concrete, paper, a wall you know is white. You'll correct until that reads neutral, not until the frame "feels right" — eyes adapt to casts within seconds, which is exactly why the footage got shot green in the first place.

No neutral in frame? The grey card reference shows what true neutral looks like at several brightness levels — keep it open in a second tab for comparison.

Step 2 — Tint toward magenta

Green casts live on the tint axis, not the temperature axis. In the Basic section:

1. Pull tint toward magenta (positive direction) until your reference neutral loses the green.
2. Then check temperature — fluorescent fixes often reveal the footage is also slightly cool or warm underneath. Adjust until the neutral is truly neutral.

Order matters: tint first, temperature second. Most green-tint footage is done after this step.

Step 3 — Stubborn casts: the green curve

If the cast survives the tint slider (common with heavily green-spiked LEDs), open RGB Curves and select the green channel:

• Pull the green curve down slightly in the midtones — a few percent is plenty.
• If shadows are green but highlights are fine (or vice versa), pull the curve down only in that region. This is the surgical version of the tint slider.

Watch your reference neutral while you drag. The moment it reads clean, stop — overshooting swings the footage magenta, which looks worse than green.

Step 4 — Mixed lighting: fix one zone without breaking another

The hard case: a room lit by green-spiked fluorescents and daylight from a window. Correcting the green makes the window area magenta. Two options:

• Correct for the dominant source (usually the light on your subject's face) and let the window drift. Viewers forgive an off-color window; they don't forgive off-color skin.
• HSL secondary for surgical work: select just the green-contaminated hue range and shift its temperature/tint without touching the daylight zones. See HSL secondaries for how the range selection works.

Step 5 — Verify the skin

Green casts hit skin hardest. After correcting, check faces against the skin tone reference — skin should sit in the orange range with no olive drift. If everything else is clean but skin still looks off, a small HSL secondary on the skin hue range finishes the job.

Apply it to the whole clip — and every clip from that location

Here's the payoff for doing this once properly: export the correction as a .cube LUT and it becomes your permanent fix for that location. Same office, same gym, same venue — one click in Premiere, Resolve, Final Cut, or CapCut, corrected.

Fix your frame now: luttie.app/editor.